Removing and replacing the shocker mount is not a difficult job, providing you have some decent equipment. You can do it at home if you’re capable – if not send it in. This is a service we offer and we also manufacture stainless steel rear shocker mounts.
You usually swap the shaft over if the threads are damaged or the shaft has been damaged if someone has tried to grind off a seized shocker sleeve. Or you want a stainless version so you don’t see rust on your pride and joy.
It’s easier if the casing is totally stripped as you are putting the casing into multi positions.
First grind off the back of the shocker mount, the mount sticks out and is peened over, this stops the mount coming out. You can heat the casing and use a drift to knock the shaft out away from the hub towards the side casing face. If you try the wrong way you can split the casing! Or you can set the casing up and press out the mount in a hydraulic press – you don’t need a big press they come out at around 1 – 2 tons which isn’t much at all. Or you could set it up in a vice and push it out. Heat helps but you can do it cold they are not tight!
Once the mount is removed, you can clean up the hole area. Take the new shaft and make sure its the same length as the old one, they usually are. Check the shaft in the casing do this cold or at room temperature and the same with the shaft – this way you can feel the tightness. If you freeze the shaft and heat the casing you have no idea how tight or loose the shaft can be.
Our MB shafts are machined so they usually hand push or lightly tap in place, until you get to the splines. It means you don’t need a hydraulic press, you can finally pull in place with a vice and spacer at the back, you can knock it in carefully with a hammer or you can press it in place. Always use that wonderful stuff loctite on the shaft and spited area when fitting, this will lock the shaft in place. If the shaft is tight, then use grease and it may need to be pressed in.
Once fitted, peen over the tube part with a chisel to stop the shaft pulling back out – which it shouldn’t because when the shocker is fitted, the inner bush tightens up against the splined area and the nut tightens the bush to the shaft not the casing.
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